July 2018

12th July – This private yacht is visiting Stromness for a few days. Archimedes is pehaps a bit too flash for us but rather nice nonetheless.

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13th July – Spent an excellent evening in the Orkney Theatre with Fred MacAulay. Laughing from start to finish. His performance, at eighty minutes, was far too short.

Fred Macauly

15th July – Today is the start of Stromness Shopping Week, a seven day gala of events culminating in an open air dance and firework display at the pierhead next Saturday. Shopping Week started in 1949, to revive the town’s economy after the war. 2018 is the 70th time it has been held. The opening event is the Hack, where local equestrians ride around the town boundary, covering some twelve miles.

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The Hack coming up Porteous Brae

This year they are led by Maureen Tait on her horse, Magic. They all look very smart.

20th July – One of the week’s fun events is the annual scarecrow competition. The streets are dotted with imaginative creations, here’s a selection.

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Orkney doesn’t have an Empire State Building, so King Kong does the best he can in Stromness.

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21st July – H embarks on a new career of plundering and pillaging. Here she is with the Scalloway Jarl Squad as they take part in the Shopping Week parade.

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Helga Bloodaxe with her gang.

The red bearded Viking to H’s right is her Blipfoto buddy, ZE1Christie from Shetland.

The week ends with a dance at the Pierhead and a firework display over the harbour.

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29th July – A nice sunny day here, with just enough breeze to catch the sail on this windsurfer. Just shows you don’t need to be twentysomething to get out on the water.

Windsurfer

Go to August 2018

June 2018

1st June – Stromness hits the techy headlines. IT giant Microsoft chose Orkney to test their experimental submarine data storage facility. The large white cylinder was loaded with twelve racks of servers in France, towed to Stromness and loaded on the gantry barge for deployment out at sea. The idea being that, by lowering the cylinder into the sea, the unit will be kept cool, cutting normal cooling costs and, by removing oxygen and water vapour, they can minimise corrosion. We had a grandstand view throughout.

Green Marine Installs Microsoft’s Project Natick Data Centre at EMEC

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2nd June – West Side Cinema, Stromness. A very civilised way to watch a movie. Sitting at tables, we bring a bottle of wine, some nibbles and share with friends. Tonight it was “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri”, with the screen shot neatly edited for the cinema. An excellent film, by the way.

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13th June – First visit of the season to our favourite restaurant, the Hamnavoe, in Graham Place. Always an excellent evening in a cosy setting. Hopefully, we’ll manage a few more visits before the end of September, when they close for the winter.

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15th June – Phew! After a stressful six weeks, we eventually managed to buy the house at Well Park!

Round 8 Well Park

Nicely located at the south end, it’s almost the last house on the road, the last house was that of the artist, Stanley Cursiter (see Local Heroes).

It has terrific views across the harbour and out over Scapa Flow. Rear views are over the Golf Course towards Hoy. We’d had our eye on this place since coming here and when it came up for sale we pounced.

21st June – From May to August, it never gets truly dark here. Known in Orkney as the “Simmer Dim”, there is a period of twilight between sunset and sunrise. This picture was taken at midnight, looking across the Pole Star Pier.

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24th June – The “Hamnavoe” glides past Stromness golf course en route for Scrabster. A glorious afternoon, ideal for the ferry crossing. Hoy High lighthouse is in the background.

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Alongside the golf course stands the Ness Battery, one of the best preserved WWII coastal batteries in the country. H & I have been here three years and never visited, so we took the opportunity this afternoon to do the guided tour. It housed two large 6″ naval guns to protect the entrances to Scapa Flow, each capable of firing a 100lb shell 9 miles. It housed over a hundred men during the war and their accommodation has been preserved. The site is famous for the murals of rural England painted on the canteen walls.

Ness battery                            The two pictures at right are from the Ness Battery web site.

 

30th June – I don’t know what causes this sort of thing but we have a mass of jellyfish in the Noust this morning. They look very colourful but I doubt if many will survive.

 

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It’s been a glorious day here. Passed by Maes Howe this afternoon and grabbed this picture. Maes Howe is one of the largest neolithic tombs in Europe and well worth a visit.

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Go to July 2018

May 2018

3rd May – A bit of excitement at the Museum today. We had a visit from a TV crew who are making a programme about Skara Brae. Fronted by Susan Calman, seen here talking to the production team.

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It’s a bit of a blurry photo, surreptitiously taken with my phone, didn’t want to look like a fawning fan! The Museum has a number of artefacts from Skara Brae and the programme was focussing on Buddo, a 5000 year old “human” figurine, carved from whalebone. There are very few human figures from the Neolithic period, so Buddo is very rare. The programme aired in March 2019.

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Skara Brae “Buddo”     Photo: R. Marr

5th May – Hurray! Today’s BBC Scotland Weather report used my photo of the Loch of Stenness as their backdrop. Yes, I am Scapawatch! Man of mystery. It’s only the seventh photo I’ve submitted as a Weather Watcher and just spotted it on TV by chance. Feeling rather chuffed.

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8th May – We enjoyed a nice stroll down to the marina this morning, in warm sunshine. Debated which sort of boat we’d buy if we won the Lottery.

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Came home to discover we’d won four cinema tickets in the local newspaper’s weekly competition. Hurray! Not quite the Lottery but it’ll do for today.

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We’ve been lucky in this competition, this is the third time we’ve won it.

10th May – We’ve just enjoyed an excellent NT Live production of Macbeth, at the Pickaquoy, with Rory Kinnear in the title role. Perhaps one decapitation too many!

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Gory Rory            Photo©Brinkhoff Mogenburg

13th May – Terrific sky over the town, heralding a beautiful day tomorrow.

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14th May – The first cruise ship of the 2018 season arriving in Stromness. The “Corinthian” is a regular visitor, carrying about 90 passengers, it’s a welcome boost for some of the shops.

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17th May – Norway Constitution Day. Orkney is twinned with the Norwegian county of Hordaland and every year a parade is held in Kirkwall to celebrate.

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Photo © The Orcadian

As part of the mutual friendship, a Christmas Tree is shipped, every year, over from Bergen and set up outside St Magnus Cathedral for all to enjoy. Kirkwall sends them a bar of Orkney fudge. (Only kidding!)

20th May – Today was the annual Orkney Nature Cruise. Hosted by Northlink Ferries, on the MV Hamnavoe, we enjoyed a three hour cruise around the islands trying to spot the local wildlife. The RSPB provided a team of rangers to offer advice and identify anything that’s spotted. NL Ferries provided a free buffet, using local food producers, including whisky and beer, generously donated by Scapa Distillery and the Orkney Brewery. Music by local folk band Skeldro. What’s not to like!!!

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22nd May – Maritime disaster averted by quick thinking weather vane skipper!!

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24th – 27th MayOrkney Folk Festival!!!

A fantastic week here with the Folk Festival in full swing. Over four days, 18 venues, 35 events, 49 acts with over 200 performers! H and I managed to get tickets for four of the concerts and saw 17 acts. Never done so much foot stompin’ and hand clappin’. They were all terrific but Le Vent du Nord and Imar were outstanding. Here are some of our pics.

The Maes

Go to June 2018

April 2018

1st April – A beautiful full moon last night, illuminated the Hamnavoe ferry returning from Scrabster.

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4th April – A warm, springlike morning and a good opportunity to climb Brinkie’s Brae and enjoy the surrounding views. This pic is looking south, past the summit cairn, towards Hoy.

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8th April – Enjoyed a nice run out to Burwick and lunch at The Skerries Bistro with Jeanne Rose. They have an excellent seafood menu and a beautiful setting overlooking the Pentland Firth. The strange looking pod in the background can be hired for groups wanting to enjoy a meal with a 360° panoramic view.

At the Skerries

On the way back we stopped in St. Ola to watch the Orkney Vintage Club giving their old tractors an outing. Springtime plooin’ competitions are very popular in Orkney, giving the farmers a chance to show off their skills. Usually with slightly more modern tractors, though.

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11th April – The midnight ferry to Aberdeen. H is en route to Kettering to visit her Dad and has just boarded the Northlink ferry, MV Hjaltland, for the southbound journey to Aberdeen. The voyage takes about 6 hours, so she has a cabin and should get a snooze.

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12th April – After a bit of a choppy crossing, eased by having the cabin, she gets the train from Aberdeen to Peterborough. All went well and she arrived safely.

17th April – In a little, rockpool garden at Warebeth, sea anemones are enjoying the sunshine through the crystal clear water.

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The Dutch schooner Flying Dutchman is a regular visitor to Stromness. Here it is tied up alongside MV Hamnavoe on a lovely afternoon in Stromness.

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21st April – 11pm and the MV Hrossey glides up to the pier in Kirkwall bringing H home from Aberdeen. A good train run followed by a millpond crossing, textbook!

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And, of course, there were some nice floo’ers waiting for her. ‘Coz that’s the sort of guy I am!

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28th April – A lovely day, warm and sunny. Ideal for a trip out to Kirbuster Farm Museum. This is a farmhouse that was in use from 1732 until the 1960’s and was never modernised. It’s known as a “firehouse”, it doesn’t have a chimney, instead there’s a hole in the roof for smoke to escape. The garden has both a nice, little, stone arch and a whalebone arch. The smell of the peat smoke inside is gorgeous.

29th April  – What exciting lives we lead. Spent today bagging bruck (plastic rubbish) on Echnaloch Beach, Burray. Ocean plastic is a huge problem everywhere and Orkney is no exception. The commonest items found here are the detritus from the fishing industry, pieces of green, nylon rope and netting.  On a positive note, this was the third beach we visited, having found very little on the first two.

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We rounded the day off by joining the 1,100 crowd at the Pickaquoy Centre, in Kirkwall, to enjoy the hilarious wisdom of Jon Richardson.

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Pic: Jon Richardson website

Go to May 2018

March 2018

It looks like we’ve survived the “Beast from the East”. We didn’t get much snow here, just a dusting on the hills. It was very cold though and we didn’t venture out much over the first few days of the month.

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Looking across the marina towards the snow on Bruna Fea

This view looks north across Hamnavoe to the hill of Bruna Fea. The word fea comes from the Old Norse word for hill, fjall. The same root as fell, common in the north of England. Another variant found in Orkney is fiold.

Spring heralds the breeding season for the local wildfowl. Large numbers of eider ducks can be seen around the harbour. They make a lovely, rolling “ooo” sound, reminiscent of Kenneth William’s “Oooh, Matron”. Just spotted this handsome chap gliding past the Noust.

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Male Eider

6th March – At last, the sun has appeared and there is a noticeable warmth in the air. Above the Pole Star Pier, the starlings are celebrating the signs of Springs arrival with an impressive murmuration. They roost below the pier and it’s great to watch the flock pour itself under the structure.

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Starlings at the Pole Star Pier

9th March – An unusual visitor has arrived in the North Isles. An Arctic Walrus was first spotted by the Bird Observatory team on North Ronaldsay. It was then found by Wildlife Rangers, some time later, enjoying a nap on a beach on Sanday. It is the second walrus to visit Orkney in the last five years. This photo is by Adam Hough of Orkney Wildlife Photography.

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Walrus on Sanday                                            Photo ©Adam Hough

14th March – First cruise ship of the season arrived in Kirkwall this morning. Things will start getting busy now. It will be good to see visitor numbers increasing at the Museum. The Magellan appeared out of the sunrise on it’s tour of Orkney, Shetland, the Faroes and Iceland.  A chilly tour in March!

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Magellan coming into Kirkwall              Photo ©The Orcadian

A doubly good day because my peedie car passed it’s MOT. Thanks Blue Star Garage.

16th March – An entertaining evening at the Pier Arts Centre, “An American Foy”.

Stromness has quite a large number of Americans resident here and members of their expat community, got together and related the historical links between Orkney and the US. Facilitated by Jeanne Bouza Rose and Rev. Tom Miller, with Orkney knowledge provided by local historian Pat Long. Accompanied by music, songs and some of Mom’s, good ol’ fashioned, homebakin’.

From the Orkney Dictionary: foy, noun, party or other entertainment originally to wish one success on a journey.

24th March – Now that we’re “Old Folk”, we receive a number of free ferry tickets. They run from April to March. To use up the last of the 2017 allocation , we went on a daytrip to Scotland. Taking the boat from Stromness to Scrabster, we had a run down to Tain then back via Wick. It gives us an opportunity to take in the delights of Asda, Homebase and Pets at Home, all unavailable in Orkney. This was the view of Stromness from the MV Hamnavoe as we set off on a beautiful sunny morning.

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25th March – It has been another gloriously sunny and warm day and we enjoyed a quiet amble down towards the south end of Stromness, pausing to look at the Pharos tied up on the opposite pier and watch the lifeboat and emergency escape pod training.  The Stromness silence was only interrupted by a few calling gulls and the hum of small boat engines. Pharos, seen here with helicopter on deck, is used by the Northern Lighthouses Board for the maintenance of the lighthouses and navigation buoys around Scotland.

Pharos

The spirit lives on… In the evening we walked along to the Town Hall, to a Julie Felix concert. Born in California, she has spent most of her life based in the UK.  She was a contemporary of Leonard Cohen and Bob Dylan and according to the Times in the 60’s, she was ‘Britain’s First Lady of Folk’.  Julie is still beautiful, petite and spritely.  She has lost none of the purity of voice and guitar virtuosity of her earlier career, belying the fact that she will be eighty in June this year.

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Julie Felix in Stromness

It was a full house and after opening with Bob Dylan’s ‘Early Morning Rain’ Julie entertained us with a full evening including ‘El Condor Pasa’ and ‘Going to the Zoo’, the audience all sang along during the second half of the show and she finished with ‘Hey, Mister Tambourine Man’. The intimacy of the venue allowed her to fully engage with the audience, which she clearly enjoyed.

28th March – Royal Navy minesweeper, HMS Penzance, departs Stromness en route to pay tribute at the site where, in 1917, an explosion destroyed HMS Vanguard, killing 843 of the 845 crew.

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HMS Penzance

HMS Vanguard was a dreadnought class battleship at anchor in Scapa Flow. On 9th July 1917, an explosion in a magazine ripped the ship apart with such force, that a gun turret weighing over 400 tonnes was found a mile away on the island of Flotta. The ship sank so quickly that the fleet had to carry out a roll call to establish which ship had sank.

Go to April 2018

Local Heroes

George Mackay Brown

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The Orkney Islands have produced and inspired many writers, poets, artists and musicians. Edwin Muir, Sylvia Wishart, Peter Maxwell Davis to name but a few.

Perhaps the writer most associated with Orkney is George Mackay Brown. A prolific author and poet. Born in 1921 in Sutherland, he spent his life in Stromness. His early career was influenced by other Orcadian writers, Muir, Ernest Marwick and Robert Rendall. His love for Stromness is clear in his essay collections Letters from Hamnavoe and Under Brinkie’s Brae.

We were surprised to see this letter from GMB to the writer, Ernest Marwick. It seems, that in 1946, GMB was living at 6 Well Park.

A modest man all his life, GMB finally retired to a small council house in Mayburn Court, opposite the Museum, where he died in 1996.

Dr John Rae

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Of all the Orcadian travellers, adventurers and explorers, perhaps Dr John Rae is the most remarkable.

Rae was born in 1813 at the Hall of Clestrain, near Stromness. He studied medicine and went on to qualify as a surgeon. In this capacity he took a position with the Hudson’s Bay Company in Ontario. He served as a surgeon for some ten years and his work brought him into contact with the First Nation peoples of Canada. From them he learned techniques for survival and light travel in the Canadian arctic.

Rae trained as a surveyor with the HBC and, in 1844, travelled overland on the first of many expeditions to try and find the Northwest Passage, linking the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. Rae was one of the first Europeans to spend winter in the high arctic without a supply ship.

On one such journey, through his contacts with the Inuit, Rae discovered the fate of the Franklin Expedition, which had disappeared ten years previously. Rae reported his findings to London but was dismissed and shunned for suggesting that Franklin’s men had resorted to cannibalism to survive.

It is believed that Rae identified the missing link in the Northwest Passage and the Rae Strait is named after him.

He died in London in 1893 at the age of 80 and was buried in St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. He was never fully recognised, in his lifetime, for his achievements and in 2017 he was belatedly given the freedom of Stromness. A truly incredible man.

Stanley Cursiter

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Stanley Cursiter was born in Kirkwall in 1887, prior to the First World War he studied at the Edinburgh College of Art. During the war he served as an officer with the 1st Battalion of the Cameronians. Conditions in the trenches caused ill health and he was withdrawn to a Field Ordnance Survey battalion. With his artist’s eye he developed techniques for analysing aerial photography.

Cursiter was associated with the Orcadian Woman’s Suffrage Society, having designed its banner and he married Phyllis Hourston, one of its members. The OWSS was subject of an exhibition in Stromness in 2018 and this little animation was included. The animation went on to win an award at the 2019 Scottish Short Film Festival.

After the war Cursiter’s art career flourished and, in 1930, he became the Keeper of the National Galleries of Scotland. In 1948 he was appointed as the King’s (later the Queen’s) Painter and Limner for Scotland. He held that position until his death in 1976.

Stanley Cursiter lived in the last house at the south end of Stromness, next to Well Park.

Robert Shaw

Robert Shaw was born in Lancashire in 1927 and lived there until the age of seven, when his father Thomas took over a GP practice in Stromness, Orkney’s second-largest town.

Famed for playing the hard-bitten, shark-hunting, salty sea dog from Steven Spielberg’s 1975 summer blockbuster Jaws, Shaw often recalled his time in Orkney and his father, “Those terrible islands where there’s wind and sea and you get a hundred-mile-an-hour gales.”
His father “…was an extraordinary man, a marvellous man and he was a doctor in the Orkney Islands, which is right at the top of Scotland. He was the lighthouse doctor and he used to keep a medical bag on each island and when you couldn’t get in because the sea was so rough, my father would go out… and jump off and swim ashore.”

His childhood wasn’t easy and his parents split up, after around six years in Stromness their mother left her husband and took the children south, to England.

His five years as a child in Orkney had a huge effect on the rest of his life.

Groundskeeper Willie

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Known as the angriest Scot in the world, Groundskeeper Willie revealed  that he isn’t from Edinburgh, Glasgow or Aberdeen but from Orkney! He was born into a broken home, in Kirkwall. Willie, the famously misanthropic janitor in The Simpsons, tells a bemused Bart Simpson that he grew up in a house divided, not by religion or politics, but by the famous Kirkwall Ba Game, a mass scrum that rolls through the royal burgh’s streets on New Year’s Day. Willie explains that his father was an “Uppie” and his mother a “Doonie”, and the split “tore my family apart”.

Someone on The Simpsons team has done their homework!

February 2018

February has started with some lovely spring weather and snowdrops are appearing everywhere. Doubtless there will be some remnants of winter to come.

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First snowdrops of the year.

This month sees the reopening of Stromness Museum after the winter close down. It’s a terrific museum with an amazing collection. The focus is on the history of Stromness and its links with the sea. There are exhibits on Orkney’s Neolithic past, the role of Scapa Flow in WW1 & WW2 (including many artefacts from the German Fleet scuttled in 1919) and Stromness’ connections with North America through the Hudson’s Bay Company and the Arctic explorer Dr John Rae. See the museum link below:

http://www.orkneycommunities.co.uk/stromnessmuseum/index.asp

I’m going on about the museum because I’ve been involved as a relief custodian since 2016 but this year I’ll be full time – that means one day a week here!

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Sunday 4th was a lovely day here and gave us a chance to get out for a stroll down to Ness Point. Walking south we pass some of the old stone piers with their redundant winches, juxtaposed against the modern versions in the harbour behind.

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The walk takes us past the Cannon, guarding the entrance to the harbour. Stromness is full of blue plaques describing the history of the town (see Around Stromness) and here is an example, explaining the history of the old gun.

In a town heavily dependant on the sea, it’s always important to know which way the wind is blowing. This cute little weather vane does just the job.

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The southern tip of the Stromness peninsula is home to Stromness Golf Club, one of the most northerly golf courses in the UK. Although a nice day today, they normally need to make a lot of compensation for wind off the sea.

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Heading back into town give us a nice view to the harbour and highlights how the town sits at the foot of and climbs up Brinkie’s Brae. The hill gives Stromness a deal of shelter from the strong westerly winds coming off the Atlantic.

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Tuesday 13th sees a light dusting of snow on the higher ground. The lower temperature has formed a gossamer-like shroud over the Orphir Hills.

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Sunday 18th – A lovely evening for a walk. Managed to get some nice pics including these of an icebow over Hoy and a mackerel cloud formation with rays over the golf course.

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Tuesday 20th – H has been doing a bit of beachcombing and her eagle eyes spotted this little gem. Sea Urchin shells are very fragile and often get broken up on the shore, it’s unusual to find one intact. A good find!

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Not a pleasant sight but all part of the circle of life, the remains of a Beaked Whale on the shore at Marwick Bay provides a welcome meal for a pair of Glaucous Gulls, these gulls are quite rare in Orkney.

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With the bay facing the Atlantic it’s easy to see how the power of the waves could throw a whale carcass on to the beach.

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Wednesday 28th – We are getting low spring tides at the moment and the ebbing waters expose some of the creatures that inhabit Gray’s Noust, such as this starfish

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and this selection of mussels, limpets, barnacles and sea anemones. We’ll eat well tonight!

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Go to March 2018

January 2018

Hogmanay 2018 in Stromness

This is our third Hogmanay here. Our celebrations tend to be fairly muted but I still seem to feel a bit fuzzy on New Year’s Day!

2017 was a special year in Stromness, this is the 200th anniversary of Stromness becoming a Burgh of Barony (don’t ask) in 1817 and a number of events have been organised throughout the year by the excellent Per Mare committee (Per Mare is the town motto – By Sea). This Hogmanay saw the revival of the Yule Log, an old street game last played in 1937. It involves two teams, Soothenders and Northenders – 40 men and women in each team, taking part in a tug-of-war where the teams attempt to pull a 400kg log to their respective ends of the town. To be clear, that’s a 400kg log PLUS the struggling opponents to be dragged about 100 yards along the street. The Soothenders made it look quite easy and won convincingly. Helen and I are Soothenders – hurray!!

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The event was well attended and hopefully the Yule Log can continue as a Stromness tradition, or at least until somebody is maimed!?

January Generally

Following the jollities of Christmas, January is always a bit of a miserable month. Here the days are still fairly short and the weather swings between grey skies with wind and rain and beautiful sunny days without a cloud in the sky. We are, however, regularly treated to spectacular sunrises and sunsets at more civilised hours than in the longer summer days.

We have had a bit more snow than usual this year and colder temperatures have made it stay longer. Hoy always looks great and even Graemsay got a dusting.

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January is a time when the island’s ferries go for their annual maintenance and service. This year our faithful Hamnavoe was replaced with the huge freight carrier Helliar. Hamnavoe is a nice, stable ship and, generally, provides comfortable crossings. Hopefully, it won’t be out of service for too long.

Stromness is known for the old, narrow twisty streets. The principal road through the town has this slab and cobble arrangement. The slabs were too slippery for carts pulled by horses, so the central cobbled strip was added to allow horses to get a grip. The streets are quiet at this time of year and the locals can enjoy a stroll without being run over.

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Alfred Street and cat

January saw H’s Dad celebrate his 90th birthday in Kettering and she went south for the celebrations. A great opportunity to catch up with the family. A long journey, though, ferry from Kirkwall to Aberdeen followed by train to Peterborough. Fortunately, she had a decent journey in both directions.

 

Go to February 2018

Au Revoir Lochinver

2017 saw us sell our wee house in Lochinver as part of our move to Orkney. A very sad time for us. We had spent some ten years holidaying there and made many good friends.

Lochinver is situated at the head of a sea loch in a remote corner of the northwest of Scotland. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful and spectacular parts of the country. Stunning beaches, iconic mountains and abundant wildlife make every visit a delight.

The village itself, considering its remoteness, is well served with amenities. Several excellent restaurants (including a Michelin star) specialise in local ingredients, particularly seafood. There’s a great little bookshop and café in Inverkirkaig, where we were always made to feel welcome. Entertainment was provided in the village hall, including international acts that came up from the Edinburgh Festival. Movies are provided by the touring Screen Machine – a cinema in a truck!

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Screen Machine visiting Lochinver

Definitely not “goodbye” to Lochinver and we’ll be going back for holidays and keeping in touch with old friends.

Around Stromness

Around Stromness

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This is a nice pictorial map of Stromness, showing the layout of the town. Well Park is marked at bottom left, next to the George Mackay Brown Garden. Stromness Museum is shown at left middle and Graham Place (where H works at the Red Cross shop) can be seen in the centre, indicating our long commutes to work. The map also shows the locations of the blue plaques, dotted through the town, showing points of historical interest.

Super Moon over the Flow

Got this shot of the moon over Houghton Head. The wisps of cloud made it appear to be wearing a bandit mask.

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Wintry Hoy Ahoy

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We don’t get too much snow in Orkney, so it’s always nice to see the neighbouring island of Hoy with a touch on the hills. The roofless building in the centre was Stromness’ first lifeboat station. Established in 1867, 2017 was the 150th anniversary and was marked by the unveiling of a plaque at the old station and a flotilla of the local lifeboats into the harbour.

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Up Hellihole

Just outside Gray’s Noust is the bottom of Hellihole Road, a name which seems to amuse the visitors and is much photographed. It’s one of the steeper roads in Stromness and can be tricky in winter. The building is the former Stromness Library and is now an Arts Studio.

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Climbing the hill, the road passes Stromness’ “Leading Lights” (not me and H, as I’m sure you thought). The two lights, when aligned, guide shipping into the harbour below.

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The name Hellihole is derived from “Haley Hole”, a mineral well nearby, which was believed to have health giving properties. At one time it was visited by pilgrims who considered it a “miracle well”.

Around the corner, on Back Road, is this nice little cottage, The beehive structure on the corner was a type of kiln used for drying grain.

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Continuing along Back Road, we can detour up to the “Citadel”, this was the site of an Anti Aircraft battery in WWII and gives great views over Hoy Sound. In the foreground is the site of the Ness Battery, first established in 1914 and updated in 1938. It guards the western entrance to Scapa Flow.

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The Citadel also gives a good view to the east, past Hoy High lighthouse (on Graemsay) across the Flow to Cava and Flotta.

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From here it’s just an easy 10 minute stroll downhill back home. A nice wee walk.

The Old Warehouse Buildings

Warehouse Building

This is another of Stromness’ blue plaques, recording that the “Old Warehouse Buildings” were built in the 1760s for the storage of rice brought from the American colonies during the Seven Years War. This building now houses the new library, the Council offices and the Police station but has no signage indicating this. Stromness operates on a need to know only basis, also known as “aabody kens”.

Groatie Buckies

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These little shells are “groatie buckies”, or spotted cowries. They are much sought after by Orcadians for good luck. It is common to see entire families bent double, scouring the beaches in search of them.

Stromness Sailing Club

Thursday evenings see Stromness Sailing Club out on the water for their weekly get together. Here they are in Stromness Harbour enjoying a beautiful evening.

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Mapping the Town

The main streets of Stromness are to be scanned using a laser 3D scanning system. A team from Robert Gordon University (RGU) carry out laser scanning of the town’s historic and architecturally unique Victoria Street, capturing key points such as well-known building facades and the topography and layout. This is their scanned image of Stromness Museum. (Article from The Orcadian).

Stromness